Friday, August 17, 2012

Cows and Crosses (08.17.12)

08.17.12

Today was a day where w road-tripped out into the country. Our main objective, after getting lots of sleep of course, was to go to the Valley of Boyne, where several famous old grave sites lie. The drive out into the country was gorgeous - and we saw field after field. Eric told us the land here is actually very fertile now, and if properly produced, Ireland's already surplus of crop could support many millions more than it already does.

Stopping on a narrow road to survey the view, this land was only half an hour from the city. Lined with small villages, farms, and vacation homes of Dubliners, this view was great. Almost as soon as we came out of the car, all of the cows in the field suddenly turned to stare at us. After a minute or so, they wandered closer until the entire little collection of them just watched us. Every one. Apparently they were a good way for farmers to tell if they were being watched by the British hiding out in the fields back in the day. If all their cows were huddled in a corner, they knew something was up.





Moving to the visitor's center, the tours to the Newgrange grave site were booked till after 2pm, and we had arrived only a little after 11. Buying tickets, we left and decided to see some other local sites while we waited.

Eric suggested a place called Monasterboice, where we got to see many old graves marked with traditional celtic Christian crosses. There were some newer graves as well, which made for an odd mix, however it was still very cool. Surrounded by the country, it was certainly picturesque. The old wall marked the grounds that was originally a monastery, noted by it's name. An old bell tower, as well as two small churches, still remain in ruin.






Grave markers for the wealthy, such as this, often had elaborate carvings on them, explaining important stories of the religion. The bottom panel of the back side includes Adam and Eve, as well as Cain and Abel.




After exploring this site for some time, we headed back to the visitor's center to grab lunch before the tour, since there were not really any cafe's or lunch places out in the country. We then took a bus out at 2:15 to go see Newgrange, which is only one of a many grave sites as well as fortification rings. Many farmers call them Faeries Circles, and they hold lots of superstition to those still on private property. Though this one is carefully governed, many farmers refuse to let anyone see what they have on their own properties.

Newgrange in particular is a site older than Stone Henge. Many of the rocks used to build it's exterior wall were from anywhere between 80 to 30 kilometers away (what is pictured below is mostly a replica but still the original stones). This tomb has never collapsed, and is strongly built inside, maintaining everything original. It was discovered long ago, and was marked with graffiti through the Victorian times until regulation in the mid 1900's came in to save and preserve the site. Remains of 5 were found inside, though it could have been used for more than that. The site was made to shine light into the grave on the shortest day of the year, as well as the few days surrounding it. Ceremonies would have been had. All other days left the interior complete darkness. They simulated this light with electricity, and it was wonderful. We all used our imaginations to pretend it was the sun, which apparently shines much much brighter. Our tour guide said she had been lucky to see the light come in during the winter for the past 5 years.

I wasn't allowed any shots inside, but the inside was remarkable. Here I show you the outside, which is still really amazing. Many of the base stones were marked with these swirly motifs.






After this adventure, we headed back to Dublin, where I bought some cool shoes in a cheap area of town we'd passed the previous day. Though Eric had noted this area as sketchy, we went back, and I found my spiked Lita ripoffs, but went for some Creeper-like wedges instead. Almost even bought Nightwalk ripoffs, but decided against them. Someday! The girls in the shop were very nice, and I could have spent much longer in there if we hadn't kept my father outside waiting. And while looking for some unique things on another shopping street, we instead entered Zara, which we have at home, though I'd never been in. Couldn't help but to fall in love with MORE shoes, which I will have pictures of later.

Dinner out was fantastic - we went to a small Italian restaurant not far from the hotel. The service wasn't fantastic, but I could tell that Pesto was home made. We topped off the night with some bar drinks at the hotel, where I tried Smithwick beer, as recommended. It was very good! Have yet to try Guinness still, though I have been recommended some Ciders by Jacob, which I hope to try when we get to Dingle later this trip.

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